3 Simple Strategies to Grow Your Own Produce: From Market to Garden

In the 21st century, many people are becoming increasingly interested in growing their own vegetables and herbs. Whether it’s to save money, enjoy fresher produce, or simply connect with nature, cultivating your own edible plants can be a rewarding and fulfilling experience. We posted earlier about the timeless wisdom of heirloom heritage plants, and starting your own backyard garden or garden tower using non-GMO heirloom seeds using healthier permaculture soil. As an alternative to planting seeds from a package, you can grow a bountiful garden from common organic/biodynamic Farmer’s Market, CSA, or grocery store purchases, preferably in unglazed ceramic pots. In this guide, we’ll explore how you can transform everyday grocery items into thriving plants right in your own backyard, deck, or kitchen windowsill if you have limited space.

The Basics

When selecting produce with the idea of re-growing, always choose organic items as they are less likely to be treated with growth inhibitors or pesticides, which can hinder their ability to regrow. Look for those with intact roots if you will be growing from scraps.

Regardless of whether you’re regrowing from scraps or planting seeds, proper care is essential for a successful harvest. Ensure your plants receive adequate sunlight, water, and nutrients, whether indoors or out. Regularly check for pests and diseases, and take appropriate measures to control them, such as handpicking pests or using organic pest control methods. Prune your plants as needed to encourage healthy growth and prevent overcrowding. Some things like herbs and lettuce can grow rather quickly; others may take a few months to full maturity.

Re-Growing from Scraps

Lettuces: Choose a head of fresh lettuce with crisp leaves and no signs of wilting or discoloration. After using the leaves of the lettuce, save the base of the lettuce head with about 1-2 inches of the core intact.  Place the lettuce base in a shallow dish of water, ensuring the cut end is submerged. Change the water every day to keep it fresh. After a few days, you should start to see new leaves emerging from the center of the lettuce base. Continue to grow the lettuce in water or transplant it into soil for continued growth and enjoy fresh lettuce for salads and sandwiches.

Note that lettuce prefers cool temperatures and partial shade, especially in warmer climates. Choose a location in your garden that receives morning sun and afternoon shade, or grow lettuce in containers that can be moved to a shadier spot during the hottest part of the day. Lettuce also prefers well-draining soil with plenty of organic matter.

Harvest lettuce leaves when they reach the desired size, typically when they are 4-6 inches long for leaf lettuce or when the head feels firm for head lettuce varieties. You can harvest individual leaves as needed, or you can cut the entire head of lettuce at the base for a larger harvest. Leave some leaves on the plant to continue growing for a continuous harvest.

Celery: Cut the bottom 2” off the base of a bunch of celery and place it in a shallow dish of warm water. Make sure that the bottom inch remains submerged; using toothpicks can help. Place the bowl near a window and change out the water every day or two. Within 5-7 days or so, the small leaves in the center will grow and darken, and the outer stalks may turn brown or dry out. At this point, remove the plant from the water so it doesn’t rot, and transplant into a pot with soil (or in the ground if planting outdoors), ensuring the new inner leaves are above the soil. With sunlight and water, your celery will be ready to harvest in approximately 4 months.

Sweet Potatoes: Look for sweet potatoes with small “eyes” or sprouts protruding from them. If you don’t see any with eyes, you can place your sweet potatoes in a dark area for a few days until you see small sprouts emerging. Cut the sweet potato into sections, each containing one or two sprouts, and allow pieces to dry for a day or two to reduce the risk of rotting. Plant the sections in loose, well-draining soil, about 4 inches deep, with the sprouts facing upwards. Space the sections about 12 inches apart in rows or mounds, or in individual pots. Sweet potatoes thrive in warm temperatures and require full sun.

Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Once the vines begin to grow, they will quickly cover the ground, suppressing weeds and conserving moisture. As the growing season progresses, gently mound soil around the base of the vines to encourage more root development and larger tubers. Sweet potatoes are ready to harvest when the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither, typically around 3-4 months after planting. Carefully dig around the base of the plant to harvest the tubers, being careful not to damage them. Cure the harvested sweet potatoes by placing them in a warm, humid location for about 10-14 days to allow the skins to toughen and the flavors to develop.

Carrots & Radishes: Choose a bunch of fresh, firm carrots with vibrant orange color and smooth skin (or a bunch of fresh, firm radishes with smooth, brightly colored skin and crisp texture). Avoid those that are limp, soft, or have signs of rot. At home, cut off the tops of the carrots/radishes, leaving about an inch of the greens attached to the root. Place the carrot tops in a shallow dish of water, ensuring that the cut ends are submerged. Change the water every day to keep it fresh and prevent rot. After a few days, you should start to see new growth emerging from the tops of the carrots. Allow the greens to grow until they reach a few inches tall. You can continue to grow carrot or radish greens indoors as a decorative plant, or you can plant them outdoors in a garden or container. If you choose to transplant the greens outdoors, prepare a garden bed or container with loose, well-draining soil. Plant the greens at the same depth they were growing in the water, spacing them about an inch apart. Water the transplanted greens thoroughly and keep the soil consistently moist. Carrot and radish greens are edible and can be harvested as needed for salads or garnishes. However, if you want to harvest the carrots themselves, you’ll need to be patient. Radishes take 3-4 weeks, and carrots take several months to mature, depending on the variety. Keep the soil consistently moist and weed-free, and thin out the seedlings as needed to allow room for the roots to grow.

Green Onions: Choose a bunch of fresh green onions (also known as scallions or spring onions) with firm, crisp stalks and vibrant green tops. Avoid onions that are wilted or have slimy or discolored stems. After using the green tops in your cooking, save the white bulb with roots intact. Trim off any dried or damaged roots but leave the healthy roots and a small portion of the white bulb intact. This part of the onion contains the dormant root system that will allow the green onions to regrow. Green onions can be easily regrown indoors in containers; fill a small container or pot with well-draining potting mix. Make a hole in the soil with your finger or a pencil and insert the white bulb of the green onion into the hole, leaving the green tops exposed. Space the onions about 1 inch apart if planting multiple onions in the same container. Water the soil thoroughly after planting to settle it around the roots. Green onions prefer full sun to partial shade and well-draining soil. Place containers in a sunny window. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, watering whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Green onions are relatively low-maintenance plants. Keep the soil consistently moist and weed-free, and fertilize with a balanced fertilizer every 4-6 weeks during the growing season to encourage healthy growth. Rotate the container occasionally to ensure even growth. Green onions can be harvested as soon as the green tops reach the desired length, typically when they are 6-8 inches tall. To harvest, use clean scissors to snip off the green tops just above the soil level. Leave the white bulbs in the soil to continue regrowing for future harvests. You can harvest green onions continuously throughout the growing season as needed.

Re-Growing from Plant Cuttings

Herbs such as basil: When choosing a live basil plant from the grocery store, look for a healthy specimen with lush green leaves and no signs of wilting or disease. It’s best to choose a plant that hasn’t flowered yet, as basil tends to become woody and less flavorful once it flowers. Once home, using sharp scissors, snip off a few stems, making sure each cutting is about 4-6 inches long. Choose stems that are healthy and free from any signs of damage or disease. Cut just below a node where a leaf attaches to the stem. Remove the lower leaves from the cuttings, leaving only a few leaves at the top. This helps reduce moisture loss and encourages the cuttings to focus their energy on root development. From here you have two options; one is to submerge the bottom in water until roots emerge, then transplant to soil. The other is to plant the cuttings directly in a pot, while firming the soil around them to provide support. Place the pot in a warm, bright location away from direct sunlight. Keep the potting mix consistently moist, but not waterlogged, by watering lightly when soil is dry to the touch. You can cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or a cloche to help retain moisture and create a humid environment, which can encourage root growth. Expect it to take a few weeks for the cuttings to develop roots and begin to establish themselves. Once the roots are well-established, you can transplant the basil cuttings into individual pots or directly into the garden, if desired.

Re-Growing from Seeds

Tomatoes: Select heirloom or open-pollinated varieties, as these will produce seeds that are true to type. Look for ripe, healthy tomatoes with vibrant colors and firm flesh. Scoop out the seeds and pulp from ripe tomatoes into a bowl. Add a little water to help separate the seeds from the pulp. Allow the mixture to ferment for about 2-3 days, stirring occasionally. Fermentation helps to break down the gelatinous coating around the seeds, which can inhibit germination. After fermentation, rinse the seeds thoroughly in a fine-mesh sieve under running water to remove any remaining pulp. Spread the seeds out on a paper towel to dry completely before storing them in a cool, dry place. Tomato seeds can be started indoors 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area. Fill seed-starting trays or small pots with a well-draining seed-starting mix. Plant the tomato seeds about 1/4 inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist. Place the trays or pots in a warm, sunny location or under grow lights to encourage germination. Once the seedlings have developed their first set of true leaves, transplant them into larger pots or containers. Before transplanting tomato seedlings outdoors, harden them off by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions over the course of a week. Choose a sunny spot in your garden with well-draining soil. Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball of the seedling and gently transplant it into the hole, making sure to bury the stem up to the first set of leaves. This encourages the development of a strong root system. Water the transplanted seedlings thoroughly and provide support, such as stakes or cages, as they grow. Tomatoes require regular watering, especially during dry periods, to ensure even fruit development and prevent cracking. Fertilize the plants with a balanced fertilizer according to package instructions. As the plants grow, prune off any suckers (extra little vines) that develop in the crotch between the main stem and branches to promote better air circulation and fruit production. Harvest tomatoes when they are fully ripe and have reached their desired size and color. Simply twist or cut the fruits from the vine, being careful not to damage the plant.

Peppers: Like tomatoes, choose pepper varieties that are open-pollinated or heirloom to ensure seed viability. Select ripe, healthy peppers with vibrant colors and firm flesh. To collect pepper seeds, cut open ripe peppers and remove the seeds and pulp. Rinse the seeds under running water to remove any remaining pulp. Spread the seeds out on a paper towel to dry thoroughly before storing them in a cool, dry place. Unlike tomatoes, pepper seeds do not require fermentation before drying. Pepper seeds can be started indoors 8-10 weeks before the last expected frost date in your area. Use seed-starting trays or small pots filled with a well-draining seed-starting mix. Plant the pepper seeds about 1/4 inch deep and keep the soil consistently moist. Place the trays or pots in a warm location or use a seedling heat mat to encourage germination. Once the seedlings have developed their first set of true leaves, transplant them into larger pots or containers. Harden off pepper seedlings before transplanting them outdoors, following the same gradual exposure to outdoor conditions as for tomatoes. Choose a sunny spot in your garden with well-draining soil. Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball of the seedling and transplant it into the hole, making sure to space the plants according to their recommended spacing. Water the transplanted seedlings thoroughly and provide support, such as stakes or cages, for taller varieties. Peppers require consistent moisture throughout the growing season, so water them regularly, especially during dry spells. Fertilize the plants with a balanced fertilizer according to package instructions. As the peppers grow, pinch off any flowers that develop within the first 6-8 weeks of transplanting to encourage the plants to put their energy into vegetative growth. Harvest peppers when they have reached their desired size and color. Use a sharp knife or scissors to cut the peppers from the plant, leaving a short stem attached.

Watermelons and other melons: Choose a ripe melon and collect the seeds. Rinse the seeds to remove any remaining pulp and allow them to dry thoroughly on a paper towel. Once dry, store the seeds in a cool, dry place until you’re ready to plant them. Melons require warm temperatures and plenty of sunlight to thrive. Choose a sunny location in your garden with well-draining soil. Before planting, amend the soil with compost or aged manure to improve fertility and drainage. Plant the melon seeds directly into the garden or in biodegradable pots filled with potting soil. Plant the seeds about 1 inch deep and space them 2-3 feet apart in rows or mounds. Melons have sprawling vines, so ensure they have plenty of space to spread out. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged throughout the growing season. Once the vines begin to develop, mulch around the base of the plants to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Watermelons are ready to harvest when the tendrils near the fruit start to dry out, and the underside of the melon turns yellow or cream-colored. You can also thump the melon with your knuckles to listen for a deep, hollow sound, indicating ripeness. Other melons are ready to harvest when they develop a sweet aroma, the stem begins to crack near the fruit, and the skin turns slightly yellow or tan for cantaloupes and honeydew, respectively. You can also gently press on the stem end of the fruit – if it gives slightly and separates easily from the vine, it’s ready to harvest.

Growing your own vegetables and herbs from grocery store purchases is not only economical but also incredibly rewarding. With a little patience and care, you can transform kitchen scraps and seeds into a thriving garden that provides fresh, flavorful produce for you and your family to enjoy. So the next time you’re at the grocery store, keep an eye out for potential garden starters to begin your kitchen garden.

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